I can only speak for myself, but after the historical horror of 2020 I would appreciate a gift with great whiskey wrapped in an arch. I guess I am not alone. That’s why I made sure that my annual tradition of suggesting multiple bottles for the holidays was implemented with extra care this year, and of course adhering to strict social distancing guidelines so my team of tasters can sniff our way through the 30s, can sip and joke. plus candidates to land on that final list of 16.
As always, there are a range of styles, prices, and origins, from Europe to Asia, Kentucky, Philly, and Mexico (yes, for El Whiskey). Everyone has their own virtues. But shared with someone special in your bladder, everyone can offer a taste to traverse the world, transcend the moment and warm the mood with a sip of cheers.
BOURBON, TENNESSEE WHISKEY AND LOCAL STARS
Old Forester Straight Bourbon. Old Forester has been continuously distilled since 1870 and was the first American whiskey to be sold by the bottle. There are more complex editions of the brand, but the 86-proof standard remains a great value. This 72% corn-based spirit has bourbon’s classic profile of praline sweetness, fruit and grain with a note of tobacco. It’s also as close to drinking a chocolate and cherry liqueur as it gets. 86 Proof, $ 21.99 (PLCB Item # 3290)
New Liberty Bloody Butcher Straight Bourbon Whiskey Single Barrel. The first edition of New Liberty’s Bloody Butcher Bourbon proved how good Pennsylvania distilling can be when it focuses on local grains, in this case red grains of Bloody Butcher corn from Bucks County’s Castle Valley Mill and a smaller one Part of malted rye from Deer Creek. Distiller Robert Cassell has taken it to the next level with this limited new edition, which has matured for two years (compared to nine months in the standard version) in a single barrel of deeper char. This is still relatively young, but this richly structured pot still spirit is fully an expression of corn. A nose of honey ripe with juicy pear merges with earthiness and a caramel corn finish, supported by a green aroma that reminds you to peel the silk from fresh corn. 95 proof, $ 59.99 direct from New Liberty Distillery or at the distillery’s booth in the Christmas Village.
Onkel Nearest 1884 Small Batch Whiskey and Onkel Nearest 1856 Premium Whiskey. Nathan “Nearest” Green is finally being bottled thanks to entrepreneur and historian Fawn Weaver who brought to light the story of the formerly enslaved man who taught Jack Daniel how to distill Tennessee whiskey. After emancipation, Green worked for Daniel, who never enslaved people. Daniel always recognized Green as a mentor. Green was finally recognized as Brown-Forman’s first distiller in 2017, according to Weaver’s research.
Weaver also opened a distillery in Shelbyville, Tennessee to honor Green’s fluid art. Green’s great-great-granddaughter Victoria Eady Butler oversaw the blending of the currently sourced spirits. The two bottles I tried were exceptional. The 1884 is mixed with whiskey that is at least seven years old and served with lemon pepper and nutmeg over brown butter caramel with a hearty finish. The 1856 is a darker mix of older spirits between 8 and 14 years old with a deeper, stronger 100-proof punch. A blend of dried raisins, brutal dark chocolate, ginger, pecan tart, and a lingering toasted note reminiscent of the charred maple filtration that is Tennessee whisky’s trademark. Onkel Nearest 1884, 93 Proof, $ 49.99 (PLCB Item No. 83071); Onkel Nearest 1856, 100 Proof, $ 59.99 (PLCB Item # 74821)
Manatawny is still working with scorpions. One of the perks of having a local burner is the freedom to experiment. And Manatawny’s distillery Max Pfeffer is clearly having fun. His new white whiskey turns to straw gold after eight months in Scorpione’s mezcal barrels and is unlike anything I’ve tried. The sweet and fruity nose is reminiscent of an aromatic white wine with green apples, citrus fruits and herbs. The mezcal’s smoke is smooth but present, with a lingering saltiness, suggesting that it would make a good substitute for agave brandies in cocktails. Try it alone alongside one of the many canned fish in Manatawny’s South Philly tasting room, where Operations Manager Jennifer Sabatino pairs it with smoked clams or razor clams. 90 Proof, $ 35, available at Manatawny Still Works’ Pottstown Distillery, South Philly Tasting Room (1603 E. Passyunk Ave.), or online.
RYE TIMES
Old Overholt 114 Proof and Old Overholt 11 Year Old Straight Rye Whiskey. Old Overholt has deep roots in Pennsylvania’s 1800 rye science in West Overton, near Pittsburgh, where a distillation museum shows the history of the Mennonite village and family that started it. The recipe changed from flavorful Monongahela-style rye to a softer Kentucky profile when the brand was sold and relocated from Pennsylvania after Prohibition. But Don Draper’s favorite bottle on Mad Men has retained its appeal. Current owner Beam Suntory recently released two new expressions to mark the brand’s 220th anniversary. The 114 Proof pays homage to a distillation style from the prohibition era and combines caramel sweetness with dry spiciness and a hint of mint on the finish, ideal for mixing (and a solid value of $ 30). The more expensive 11-year-old is a wonderful sipper with many layers of complexity, mixing dried fruit and vanilla with sparks of strong rye spices and fennel in the middle of the palate. Overholt 114 Proof, $ 29.99 (PLCB Item # 98963); Old Overholt 11 Years, 92 Proof, $ 74.99 (PLCB Item # 98962)
Rock & Rye hat. Bristol’s Mountain Laurel Spirits Dad’s Hat whiskeys are among America’s finest Monongahela-style rye – the deliciously tangy 2020 version of its Bond Straight rye-bottled rye ($ 65.99, PLCB Item # 75324) is a 100% Prove for. However, the distillery’s interpretation of Rock & Rye is a worthy riff on the classic rye liqueur mixed with rock sugar. This natural version is less sweet than many of its competitors and is mixed with fresh citrus and apricot, baking spices, brown sugar, and mint horehound, which increases the herbal bitterness. Add a large ice cube and as co-owner Herman Mihalich says it’s like an old fashioned ready-to-serve. $ 39.99 direct from Mountain Laurel Distillery in Bristol or many Pennsylvania state stores (PLCB Item # 75277)
MEXICAN CORN SPIRITS
Corn whiskey from Abasolo Alma De La Tierra Oaxacan and Nixta Liqor de Elote. I am always fascinated by the variety of agave spirits from Mexico that go beyond tequilas and mezcals. Sotol, Bocanora and Raicilla to name a few. Now there is El Whiskey, made by Abasolo from cacahuazintle maize that is nixtamalized before being distilled in copper pots – a traditional technique for making maize for masa. I get a distinct hint of fresh tortillas when I approach this honey spirit that has a complexity and heat beneath its initial sweetness. But I can’t take my eyes off Nixta, Abasolo’s much sweeter and livelier companion, which is technically not a whiskey, but a liqueur made from the same corn into a sweet spice, but also macerated with ripe fresh grains after distillation. The effect is strongly reminiscent of a sweet tamale or the smell of a tortilleria during production in the early morning. Aside from its distinctive flavor, Nixta’s unique corn-shaped bottle is well worth a detour on your next trip to NYC (or for an online purchase). Abasolo, 86 Proof, $ 43.99 (shipped from Urban Wines and other New York retailers); Nixta, 60 proof, $ 34.99 at Urban.
THE EUROS
Bruichladdich Islay Single Malt Port Charlotte 10 years old. Bruichladdich is one of the few Islay distilleries that doesn’t always rely heavily on peat-smoked malts. The 10-year-old Port Charlotte is an exception. It is more intensely peated than Laphroaig and rolls over the palate like a whiskey vanilla pudding with seaweed and smoldering autumn leaves. Bold but nicely balanced. 100 Proof, $ 69.99 (PLCB Item # 98792)
Highland Park Single Malt Scotch 12 Viking Honor. This Orkney distillery pays homage to the island’s Norse influence with a Viking rebranding of its 12 year standard. Sounds tricky, but this dram also made a nice impression with its balanced personality – a fruitcake with well-rounded juiciness, framed by subtle smoke and enough tangy brightness to give it length. 86 Proof, on sale for $ 49.99, typically $ 57.99 (PLCB Item # 8001)
Tamnavulin Speyside Single Malt Scotch double barrel. Until recently, this Speyside distillery was known for its light and malty spirits that were intended to be blended. Matured in dark oak and sherry barrels, its dark amber-colored liquid now stands on its own as a smooth-drinking entry-level single malt with toffee-covered apple notes, chocolate and a lemony brightness that is pleasant, if not necessarily profound. 80 Proof, on sale for $ 34.99, typically $ 44.99 (PLCB Item # 735)
The legendary Silkie Irish Whiskey. This Irish whiskey featuring a mythical girl from the sea is sourced and blended by Sliabh Liag Distillers, who are still building their own Donegal distillery. Collectors are rightly cautious when it comes to marketing products until a distillery can make their own. Even so, we still enjoyed this sleek sipper (new to the US this fall) for its honeyed notes, strawberry brightness, and creamy finish. For the price, it’s a worthy gift. 92 Proof, $ 34.49 (PLCB Part # 625038)
JAPANESE JEWEL
Yamazaki 12 years. I can’t stop thinking about this legendary Japanese single malt as the Flow State Coffee Bar (sadly no longer available) turned it into a juicy luxury gelato that was just as delicious (and expensive). That’s because this whiskey is a great boon. Yes, Japan has many good spirits to consider. However, a repetition of 12-year-old Yamazaki (without ice) was a reminder of why this classic is still one of the greatest whiskeys in the world – a bright golden ray made up of sunny fruits (pineapple and melons), dried fruits, hazelnuts, vanilla and incense Japanese oak. 86 Proof, $ 124.99 (PLCB Item # 30981)
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